Wine: The thirst quenchers

Not every wine has to be complex and thought-provoking, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. The three easygoing reds below are “beautiful in their simplicity.” Like so-called lawn mower beers, they focus on “the No. 1 task of any wine—to refresh.” And they’re proof that “every good wine has a time and place to be the ideal choice.”

2015 Lapierre Vin de France Raisins Gaulois ($15). Only gamay grapes from Beaujolais are used in this quaffer, a “juicy, fruity, and pure” cousin to earthier Morgons.

2015 Mathiasson California Tendu ($20 for a liter). This dry, refreshing, “simply delicious” wine from Napa vintner Steve Mathiasson is principally a blend of three great Italian grapes.

2014 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône Chat Fou ($16). “Earthy” undertones don’t detract at all from the “utter vivacity” of this slightly more complex wine, which blends grenache with three white grapes. ■