Aligoté: Burgundy’s underdog
For too long, aligoté has been “the forgotten third grape of Burgundy,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. But white wines made from aligoté can be delicious, “full of energy and minerality,” and they’re also great with food. Seek out examples made with the rarer aligoté doré grape, not the high-yield aligoté vert.
2014 Sylvain Pataille ($27). Pataille, who’s known for his Marsannay reds, makes four great single-vineyard aligotés, all “energetic, mineral, and terroir-specific.” But don’t write off this, his more affordable blend.
2014 Domaine Roulot ($35). Jean- Marc Roulot’s aligotés are all “textured, precise, and alive.” The 2014 vintage was “fresh, linear, and tangy.”
2015 A&P de Villaine Bouzeron ($30). De Villaine’s aligotés are “particularly saline, with great texture and depth.” The 2015 offers “lingering flavors of lime, herbs, and minerals.” ■