Wine: Etna biancos
“Saltiness” is not a trait Americans typically look for in their white wines, but maybe they should, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Many great wines have “a distinct saline tang,” and it’s a hallmark of Etna biancos, wines made largely or entirely from carricante grapes grown in the foothills of Sicily’s Mount Etna. Because no Etna biancos are mass produced, just don’t count on finding these particular bottles.
2016 Benanti ($25). The salty, herbal flavors of this 100 percent carricante are a bit faint, but they have staying power. For a true stunner, move up to Benanti’s Etna Bianco Superiore.
2016 Graci ($28). This “tangy, lip-smacking” wine has a similar flavor profile but a richer texture.
2016 I Vigneri di Salvo Foto Aurora ($32). The Aurora seems “still more concentrated,” but though it also has more minerality, it’s not heavy, and it’s evocative of its place. ■